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Does Equipment 2.0 show Wargaming cares more about your money than you? An analysis of bad faith acting and interpretation of decisions made by Wargaming regarding demount kits, the auto-demounting of equipment, and the increase of equipment costs
We’ll start with 2 definitions as they form a base of the argument, and then briefly run down the list of issues before going into more detail on each.
The first definition is that of Hanlon’s Razor, which is a philosophical rule that states that you should “Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity”. This is relevant as I will attempt to argue that the choices made by WG are not stupid, but calculated to be in their advantage financially.
The second is that of bad faith, which is defined as a “sustained form of deception which consists of entertaining or pretending to entertain one set of feelings while acting as if influenced by another.” This is relevant as I will attempt to argue that whilst certain actions and decisions of WG appear to be for the benefit of the player, they mainly benefit WG financially, with the players merely being secondary beneficiaries.
The main issues that I can see with 2.0 can be assigned to 3 categories: 1. Equipment Auto-Demounting 2. Equipment Price Increase 3. Demount Kits for Credits
The first point is that of Equipment auto-demounting, and more specifically, WG’s decision to only demount Improved (Bond) Equipment, along with any equipment which no longer matches the class for that tier-bracket (Example here include the O-I/O-Ni Gun Rammer). Fundamentally the issue here is that it appears that the changes are entirely designed to drain credits, gold, and the newly gained demount kits out of the playerbase. Firstly, to start with, is the fact that Standard Equipment (Net, Binocs, Toolbox) are not being auto-demounted, and users are expected to demount them manually. WG has already shown that they have the capability to auto-demount equipment, so why are these not amongst the list of ones chosen?
Whilst one can argue that Hanlon’s Razor comes into effect and they have simply not done it because they forgot, the fact that they are constantly reinforcing the “demount them now” rhetoric leads me to believe that they are expecting a large number of people to forget, and their constant reminds are them covering themselves for the eventual fallout when people either have to sell the equipment at a loss, or use the precious demount kits on them. This also arguably punishes the new/f2p player even more, as no longer will they be able to pay ~1 million credits for the Standard Combo, and then equip that on every tank they play, but they instead will have to either pay up to 75,000 credits (50k to buy, 25k net after selling) per low tier tank to have a full equipment loadout, or go without equipment. This leads to either a reduction in credits as players sell the equipment at a loss, leading to players grinding more for the credits, or buying and spending gold to demount.
It can, however, be argued that going equipment-less is less of a detriment now due to the lack of equipment slots, seeing less of a stats different between a fully-equipped tank and an equipment-less one at low tiers. My proposed solution would be to keep Standard equipment demountable for free, as it does appear that this change is designed to drain credits out of new players, while being pushed under the guise of ‘consistency among equipment’.
Secondly, the point regarding the class changes also draws attention to WG attempting to drain more credits out of the economy. Whilst Tiers 8-10 are remaining the same with Medium-Caliber rammers being used where previously used, and these changes have placated many of the more enfranchised players, those currently grinding any Heavy, TD, or Arty lines T5-7 may soon find themselves having to fork out up to 900,000 credits per tank, As their old Rammer+Vents+Optics/Stabs/GLD is converted to Class 1 equipment, and no longer usable on their tanks. At this point, they could in theory sell the old equipment and rebuy the Class 2 at no perceived cost, but then they encounter a 1.8 million cost investment when it comes to purchasing the equipment at T8. In fact, even veteran players will face this investment, with T5-7 requiring Class 2 of the new equipment, and Class 1 at T8+ in the case of things such as the new ‘Bush’B’Gone’ equipment.
Furthermore, these changes themselves lead to confusion, as no longer are the Rammers consistent along a line, but new players grinding a line find themselves at a 1.8 million credit buy-in when they go from T7 to T8, as they need to buy Class 1 equipment, whereas before they could build up from the T5 onwards in terms of equipment. By adding these changes, WG have introduced another barrier to entry for new players, who will find themselves greatly disadvantaged, or forced to grind almost 2 million credits, at which point they may turn to Premium, Boosters, or Gold->Credit Conversion in order to ease the grind, thus increasing WG’s profits. Not only that, but the overall increase in the cost of equipment due to the ‘merging’ of various types like Arty Rammers will again result in a net loss of credits for players, and considering how negligible Arty Rammers are in the class of Medium or Large Rammers in terms of total needed/used, it feels very much like WG could provide a show of good faith to the community here by simply lowering the cost of the outliers to meet the normal cost, as opposed to raising the cost of the normal to the special version of the equipment.
Honestly, as a proposed solution for this, keeping it the same as it currently is in 1.0 would probably be the best course, though combining the various suspensions and Gun/Arty rammers into one is still a good design choice, provided that the overall cost of equipment is not increased.
Finally, the last point I want to make ties in mainly with the first, with that being the ability to purchase demount kits. Providing you buy all of the demount kits offered, you are effectively buying 900 gold for ~3.4 million credits. Whilst this is actually really good, as normally it is a lot harder to turn credits into gold, it still punishes those who have a large number of tanks, as they will have to spend that money in order to outfit 30-60 tanks (Presuming 2-3 of the equipment slots are replaced by the new equipment). In fact, with how good of a deal it would appear, as with equipment demounting being almost always necessary, every player is encouraged to grind that 3.4 million before the next update, again draining a large amount of credits from the player. It seems to me that effectively ‘forcing’ a player to pay 3.4 million in order to demount their equipment is wholly an attempt to drain more credits out of players, as we see the WoT economy steadily transition from an XP based one to a credit based Silver Standard.
My proposed solution with this one would simply be to demount all current equipment for free, as they’ve shown they’re capable of demounting specifics, and that combined with the proposed non-changes to equipment classes would result in very little issues of ‘I demounted a class 1 but now need a class 2’ which would need to be resolved by WG.
Overall, whilst I think a large number of the changes in 2.0 are extremely good for the game, especially in trying to break up the Rammer-Vents/Optics/Stabilizer meta, it honestly appears as though these changes are also designed to harm the new/f2p player, specifically in encouraging the purchase of gold or premium, with little consideration given outside of the bare minimum needed to stop a mass exodus. Would I call this Rubicon 2.0? As someone who wasn’t active back then, I can’t comment, but I believe that unless the community makes an active resistance against the aspects of this change, these changes will fly under the radar, as these changes are hidden well enough under the bulk of the changes and ‘concessions’, that it won’t be apparent until a few months or years down the line the impact these changes have on the grind.
As always, thanks for reading, and comment down below with any comments and criticisms.
TL;DR Management got involved to drive profits of the game up, at the expense of the normal player.
As a final note, I would like to condemn that the Progetto 46 and the EBR 75 now effectively have 4 equipment slots. Nothing else to say or add on that front, other than they’ve given the Progetto a free Rammer and some variant of Additional Grousers for the EBR, which is utterly insane given their current stats.
FAQ - work in progress
International seedbanks – Attitude seedbank highly recommended. Solid breeder selection and mostly decent to solid freebies, especially if you can wait for the right time or for special offers. Guaranteed shipping with an item is essential to Aus. Will expand seedbank list with user reports of good stealth, shipping etc from other international banks
A lot of breeders will ship direct from a clearnet website as hemp souvenir or exotic bird seed. Often with pretty great freebies, such as the infamously hard to nab Mephisto/Nightowl via the international (+ EU?) store. Many places do not ship to Aus
Connoisseur genetics is also run mostly direct by website/email. Connoisseur has a solid range of regs and fems including some old school and Australian genetics, potent hazes and heavy yielders. Currently working some of Neville's (Shoenmaker) final creations (Nevilles Haze 21 X Mullimbimby Madness, and Swiss Thai Neville) into a range of hybrids and F2s among other projects. Nice overall variety in the current catalog and very solid freebies
Mr Nice Seedbank (+ CBD Crew) (and seed auction site) is another place to get some of the best old school genetics \regs only** from some of the biggest legends in the game, Shantibaba, Howard Marks and Neville Shoenmaker. Neville and Shanti are both Aussies, and Neville and Howard have since passed away. The parents for legendary strains like White Rhino, White Widow, NL5, Super Silver Haze, Nevilles Haze, Mango Haze, Critical Mass and Great White Shark have been maintained by Shantibaba and many strains renamed for legal reasons. Strains like White Rhino, White Widow and Super Silver Haze are available elsewhere, but none have equaled the quality of the original work done by these three. *Some great deals available through the seed auctions\*
Local seedbank websites – Most have some exclusive breeder stock in original packs plus a bunch of unlabeled/random white label seed stock
- https://www.cavemanseeds.com.au/ - Holysmokes, Connoisseur, Super Sativa Seed Club and Ski Mask stockist
- https://www.aussiebakedbeans.com.au/ - Ethos, Barneys Farm and Dutch Passion stockist
- https://www.frostyflowers.biz/ - Mass Medical Strains (aka ass medical stains - currently controversial), Oni Seed Co, ACE, Katsu, Dr Krippling and Holysmokes stockist
Local breeders/banks – Instagram accounts
- geraldfitzgeraldthe2nd (aka geraldthehand)
- heavy dayze
Recommend checking out "The Pot Cast" hosted by Heavy Dayze over on Soundcloud, Spotify, Apple etc
Watering (take homes: pH your feeds, and careful of overwatering, particularly in soil packed with organic nutrition)
For most new people overwatering is a major issue. pHing feeds appropriate to medium you are using is also very important. Different medium types, soilless, soil or hydro, can have very different requirements of water and nutrient
Generally mediums fed run to waste salts are watered when pot has lost about half its weight from when it was last watered to runoff. Feed slowly and aim to get 10-20% feed volume collected in runoff, getting more runoff as the plant grows into the pot better and in flower. A moisture sensor (cheap Bunnings moisture metre) or a set of scales can help guide feed frequency.
In early vege coco coir, you're looking for 70% dryout inbetween feeds with 10% runoffs, and increasing to feeds at 50% dryout with 10-20% runoff. Increased feed frequency in flower can help stimulate an increased rate of photosynthesis. Twice a day is ideal for flower stimulation
Increasing EC runoff can require a lowered EC feed next watering. Take more immediate action if salt burn or nutrient lockout is seen. Ideal not to shock the roots with large volume flushes of significantly lowered EC solutions where possible. Try to flush with >20% runoff only once per week at most with half str nutes. Enzymes can help here
To maintain the calmag buffer within coco coir it is important to feed/flush with atleast 0.6EC of calmag and/or coco feed for every regular watering until starting final medium flush late flower. Feeding too low an EC in coco can also cause problems with nitrogen draw down, or loss from the medium. This imbalances the feed, slowing the plant down, and can be a situation where high runoff with low feed EC is the problem and not the solution, especially in flower
In an organic packed soil, it is important to keep the soil between saturation point (aka field capacity) and wilting point without saturating the soil till runoff. Organic nutrition can be easily leached from the soil causing lots of potential issues with deficiency, pH buffer and nutrient imbalance later in the grow. Soil saturation also decreases good microbial activity and can promote bad microbial activity due to low oxygen levels which further decreases ongoing nutrient availability and plant health
Hydro requires an air stone to provide sufficient oxygen to the roots. This can destabilise pH further and make use of organics more difficult in many instances. Res temperature control highly recommended to avoid significant issues
(WA WATER SUPPLY ONLY) WA is unique in it is having its dams topped up by desalination plants more and more every year in many areas. This makes water quality highly variable between areas, and also between different times of year depending on natural rainfall vs desal top up. This means water is hard but terrible to use with plants. Fluorides, other heavy metals and high sodium levels are often present with reduced carbonates. RO filtered water with calmag added back becomes a better option here in many places w/o rainwater access
Leaching (take homes: don't water till runoff in a super soil. P, and K to a slightly lesser extent, can be much harder to flush from a medium and can cause nutrient antagonism lockouts with Ca, Mg and various micronutrients if overused in flower boosters especially)
Nitrates, Sulfur, Calcium and Magnesium are the most mobile soluble nutrients in the medium and thus the most easily leached from the medium with flushing. Phosphorus is the most immobile nutrient in the medium and the most resistant to leaching. Manganese and Boron are two micronutrients more susceptible to leaching
The take homes are:
- Nitrates can be easily flushed out of the medium when seeing signs of nitrogen toxicity or burn, and can also be effectively flushed during final flush before harvest which arguably improves end product taste
- Calcium and magnesium can also be significantly flushed out which can destroy the buffer in a lot of mediums if not accounted for
- Organics are also susceptible to significant leaching when a soil is fed to runoff. Leaching a previously balanced super soil can quickly cause issues
Moisture metres can help with handwatering, as well as adjusting the blumat drippers to fine tune medium moisture for different stages of growth. The more accurate blumat moisture metres can be ideal to fine tune drip irrigation. Both require a little care
Microbes anchor into your medium and should survive a flush
Geraldthehands super simple organics super soil recipe
- 50% sphagnum peat moss (or 45% peat + 5% zeolite – more expensive)
- 40% hummus (worm castings and/or high quality compost)
- 10% biochar (available through greenman online)
- 4 cups volcanic rock dust per 30L soil mixed in
- Handful of worms
- **Top dress with “OGS no till nutrient kit” before each run**
In areas of hard or poor (high EC) water quality, pHing to 6.5 becomes more and more important to avoid issues, but is always a good idea. In areas of particularly poor water quality, water filtration of some sort might be necessary. Let tap water sit in a container overnight to gas off Chloride
A range of organic amendments and premix soils are available at Organic Gardening Solutions, Dr Greenthumbs, High Powered Organics and Easy As Organics. It can also be worth checking out some of your local gardening stores as well
EC (take homes: measuring EC of feed vs runoff is extremely important in soilless medium to keep track of how the plant is feeding and allowing you to adjust feed strength optimally while avoiding excess EC buildup and eventual burn or lockouts)
The lower the concentration of soluble salt nutrients in the root zone, the easier the plant can pull in water and nutrient, but the less nutrient the plant gets, to a point. In higher VPD (hottedryer) weather, lower EC nutrient solution will allow easier water access for the plant when water needs are increased
Over the plants life it will build up an increased internal EC as it pulls in more nutrient and handle heavier feeds without burning, until metabolism slows down near the end of its life. Super soils with active enough microlife can breakdown organic nutrition and provide it to the plant without this risk of nutrient salt burn
It's important to keep track of input vs runoff EC with run to waste salt based feeds to avoid nutrient burn and lockouts. Leaf tip burn can commonly occur with chronic salt overfeeding leading to increasing root zone EC until the osmotic pressure is too great for the plant to drink enough leading to necrosis at the tips of leaves. Low feed frequency and high VPD environment can increase the risk of burn while calcium and silica (plus general mineral concentration) in the plant acts as an osmotic buffer again burn in the plant
Root zone EC can be roughly tracked by measuring runoff EC and comparing to feed EC, or more accurately measured by a medium sample test (search canna website). Up to 0.4EC higher runoff than feed is acceptable in normal conditions
During the final weeks, flushing the root zone down to low EC levels will allow the plant to drink and swell more due to osmosis, regardless of the end flush nutrient deprivation taste debate. This increased relative water content at chop could potentially allow for an improved curing process, and hence end product taste however
Typically the plant will feed less again in the last 1-2 weeks as metabolism slows and senescence begins. The research to date says extreme flushes do fuck all but a lot of growers with decades and hundreds of plants experience still think heavy prolonged flushing to zero EC and letting the plant heavily cannibalise itself before harvest has a positive effect on taste in soilless
Rough EC input/output targets for run to waste salt feeds (lower w/ subpar VPD):
- seedling/clone 0.6 - 1.2 EC
- early to late vege 1.0 - 2.0 EC
- flower 1.5 - 2.5 EC
- end flush <0.4 EC, only time in coco to feed RO, enzyme +/- organic boosters pHed to 6 w/o base or calmag
VPD (takehomes: environmental VPD control and constant air turnover in a tent is very very important and often where the best improvement to returns will be seen in the end results. Similar day/night conditions are ideal)
Maintaining ideal VPD is where you will likely get the most extra quantity and quality from your grow. See the graph on the website below for ideal ranges from vege to late flower. Leaf temperature, which is used to determine VPD, is assumed to be around 3C lower than room temperature due to leaf transpiration
Having a fairly constant environment between lights on/off is also ideal. Switching lights-on period to nighttime during hotter months may help significantly with lights-on temps, and also lower overall temperature swings day to day
HID lighting will increase leaf temperature more than LED at the same room temperature due to radiant heat. HID lighting also needs significantly more watts in the same space leading to heat and a need for greatly increased ventilation in some instances
- HID lighting is great for low VPD (cold/humid) environments while LED is great for high VPD (hot/dry) environments
It can often help to be replacing the air in your tent several times per minute to reduce temperature and/or humidity and maintain good VPD with a much more powerful than bare minimum turnover exhaust fan. This can be automated with fan controllers with a powerful fan, and is handy to help minimise overly hot/humid conditions. Overly powerful exhaust fans can also be useful to connect up to carbon exhaust filters, which are crucial in minimising smell but will reduce the exhaust fans air outake by around 20% or more with bad quality fans. Air purifiers can also help clean up smell outside the tent a bit
Portable airconditioners, (or ideally fixed indoor AC) and dehumidifiers are often a good consideration in poor VPD environments or areas prone to big long rain storms to avoid the possibility of mould and maintain optimal growth as much as possible
Plant deficiency differential diagnosis guide (DDx) (take homes: it is good to learn the pattern difference (new vs old growth) between immobile and mobile nutrient deficiencies at minimum. Try to problem solve your leaf issues using pictorial and individual deficiency descriptions (links/info below) before posting and you will learn more than just asking someone else to help you)
Like us plants need Hydrogen, Carbon and Oxygen, the organic building blocks of all life, plus a range and balance of other nutrients to survive and thrive
Hydrogen and Oxygen comes from water via leaves or roots, while Carbon from CO2 via leaves. The energy from the sun, also captured by the leaves, is used to turn water and carbon dioxide into carbohydrates for the plant, and oxygen, which plants release significant amounts of back into the environment. Other nutrients and chemicals are primarily taken up via the root system, but can also be effectively introduced via leaf sprays
When it comes to recognising the potential cause of plant leaf issues, using some basic problem solving can help narrow down the possibilities. Generally, nutrient issues show a clear pattern related to the nutrients mobility in the plant while pest, environment and disease issues can have more random patterns
- Mobile nutrient deficiencies (N, P, K, Mg) start at the bottom fan leaves and move up to the plant.
- Immobile nutrient deficiencies (Ca, Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B) start at the top on new growth
- S and Mo are partially mobile nutrients, and deficiency can occur all over, particularly with Sulfur
- Other causes of leaf damage like pests and environmental damage tend to be concentrated in certain areas of the plant while root zone issues can present in a large variety of ways
- Nitrogen toxicity and overwatering, or lack of oxygen to roots, typically presents on top of the plant
- Heavy metal toxicity presents more on the bottom of the plant, while chemical toxicity can occur throughout
- Red stems can have a range of causes, nutritional (concentrated on bottom of plant especially), general stress, environmental stress (light) and be genetic
- General yellowing of new growth in flower can be from excessive light intensity or Fe deficiency from too much PK booster. Seeing some of this while PK boosting mid to late flower is OK
- Mobile deficiencies -
Necrosis on old/mature/lower growth
- Potassium (K) - Leaf edge burning/dechlorosis +/- small necrotic interveinal spots with progression
- Phosphorus (P) - Discoloured and misshapen light/dark green leaves with large necrotic spots. May see red leaf stem and main stems down low
- Nitrogen (N), Molybdenum (Mo) and/or Sulfur (S) - Uniform yellowing. Leaf margin colour can be seen with Mo. Eventual leaf necrosis with severe end stage deficiency
- Magnesium (Mg) - Interveinal yellowing that can progress to areas of necrosis. May see red leaf stems. Less mobile in the plant than NPK, more than S and Mo
Necrosis on new/immature/upper growth
- Calcium (Ca) - Interveinal brown spots, flimsy thin leaves prone to burn
- Boron (B) - Brown spots, rust, discoloured and deformed growth
- Zinc (Zn), Manganese (Mn) and/or Copper (Cu) - Progression from dechlorosis to necrosis with severe deficiencies only
- Iron (Fe) - Interveinal to uniform yellowing
- Sulfur (S) and/or Mo - Uniform yellowing, coloured leaf margins and leaf cupping
- Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Iron (Fe) and/or Manganese (Mn) - Interveinal/blotchy yellowing
Once you have an idea of what nutrient might be deficient consider the possibility of:
- pH swing (are you pHing feeds or seeing high EC drain?)
- nutrient antagonism (more likely with high EC drain, poor pH and/or improper feed ratios)
- insufficient feeding
If leaf damage pattern is focal or not consistent with nutrient issues, consider root zone damage and pests, airflow, plant redirecting energy from low light areas etc etc. Cannabis is a plant that will naturally start dying as it finishes flower. It is good for N in particular to start becoming more highly visibly deficient over flower. However, P, K, S and micronutrients much less ideal to be seeing visible and especially progressive deficiency
Toxicities are also possible with high EC salt feeds, poor water supply, use of synthetic chemicals, and even from organics. While most nutrients will just cause nutrient antagonism with excessive levels, Nitrogen and some micronutrients (plus other non-nutrient heavy metals and chemicals) can be toxically taken up into the plant past certain concentrations in the root zone
Cannabis is known as a bio dynamic accumulator, or phytoremediator. This means it can detoxify and improve barren/sterile soils which it does through a few primary methods:
- It uses its extensive and deep rooting system to pull nutrients, as well as heavy metals and other contaminants, that have become lost from top soils, or are at risk of contaminating water supply. These are primarily concentrated into the plants leaves, which can be later composted back into the topsoil as organic nutrition, and/or discarded of
- The roots help to break down compacted soils and create channels throughout the soil that allow for increased aeration, and help to stabilise terrain. Over time this encourages an major increase in microlife
- Phytodegredation, or conversion of toxic contaminants into less toxic substances
Hemp was successfully used, along with other dynamic accumulator plants, following the Chernobyl nuclear disaster to decontaminate the land of heavy metals. Hemp especially is considered one of the most effective plants for such purposes due to especially deep, vigorous rooting, phytodegredation abilities, and ability to effectively remove harmful heavy metals from soils
High phosphorus levels and/or nitrate levels can contribute to toxic nitrate uptake in salt based fertilised grows. Poorly sourced organic amendments and mediums as well as poor quality water can also create toxic levels of heavy metals. I once saw someone treat their medium with ant poison and created a boron toxicity, but otherwise it heavy metal poisoning is fairly rare. The plant also has reasonable thresholds to pulling in toxic levels of these things in normal soils and situations
Nutrient (and chemical) toxicity has the potential to greatly effect end product quality and these things can not be taken back out of the plant to any significant degree by even the heaviest of flushes. Nitrate toxicity shows on the top of the plants, and lowered subsequent feeding can allow the plant to redistribute nitrogen better, while micronutrient and heavy metal toxicity shows from the bottom and is fairly permanent
Resources on cannabis/hemp as a phytoremediator
This is going to be a series of links for you guys to read and explore. Its best to read around as much as possible. Due to illegality, there is still not a lot of proper scientific data for cannabis like there is for many other agricultural crops, and this has led to a lot of self experimentation and very dubious recommendations like ice water baths and 48hrs darkness. This is ultimately "bro science" as you need a lot of plants (in the hundreds/thousands ideally), and a strong genetic variety with proper controls in place before your data becomes statistically significant. The most important thing is to find what works for you in your environment
- https://friendlyaussiebuds.com/growing-cannabis-australia/budsman-p-1/ (4 parts, written by me ages ago when I was a much newer grower though)
- www.growweedeasy.com (lots of great and varied articles, some I disagree with)
- www.cocoforcannabis.com (great coco specific info written by a horticulturalist supposedly. Remember the methods here aren't the only, or necessarily absolute best way, to do things)
- www.canna.com.au (great basic grow info articles on watering, coco etc)
- https://www.reddit.com/DWC/comments/idx3yy/found_this_ppm_and_ph_guide_assuming_you_have_the/ (really great DWC basic problem solving guide)
The company you buy your medium and nutrients from will often have a lot of worthwhile information to go through regarding optimal use, or may even be available to contact directly for grow help. This can be extremely helpful and the canna hotline and instagram DM advice from various places has been very helpful to me over the years
(Yes Canna has a grow hotline open weekdays 9hrs a day and its amazing, use it)
This FAQ is a work in progress and will be updated based on community feedback and submissions. Post up any good links/resources/etc you might have come across. Let me know if anythings confusing, or make requests for anything else you'd like added. Trying to keep things as short as possible for the real common stuff