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FAQ - Post questions here.

First and foremost, these are my opinions and there are many opinions out there. You should seek them all out. This is a nuanced hobby and there is much to learn. If you have a question, reply and I'll get back to you.
What you should know before we start a conversation about football cards
  1. The more things change, the more things stay the same. Football cards are still kind of a waste of money. They weren't a good bet 30 years ago, they aren't now. Collect because you enjoy the hobby, because you enjoy the sport & its players. If you just like the thrill of the chase, hey, it's a free country but people do get addicted to ripping packs. Be careful! Be aware that prices are at an all-time high yet resale values continue to plummet as the rookie shine wears off. Take for example a guy like Eddie Lacy. A few years ago, he was on top of the sport after a monster start to his career. Now? His cards aren't worth jack. For every Tom Brady rookie card, there are a billion cards from forgotten bums who take up space in our closets.
  2. Panini is the dominant brand. They also own Donruss & Score. Topps & Upper Deck are (basically) out of the NFL card market. Panini has the NFL license so they are the only card company who can use logos and team names. Leaf, Hit, Sage, Aspire are all knock-off brands IMO but hey, if that's cool with you, enjoy what they offer.
What to buy/collect?
There are no good answers here. Generally, I'd recommend purchasing the cheapest panini/donruss/score pack/box you can find just to get your feet wet and set expectations. If you want to get more specific, I recommend going on ebay and browsing what catches your eye. Like the Steelers? Look up 2020 steelers and filter by the football cards category. Like Russell Wilson? Look up his rookie cards, look up his autos. Ultimately, you should collect what you enjoy. I collect Virginia Tech players in their college uniform. Everybody has their thing so try to find that.
What's a good investment?
Not everyone will agree with me. However, I don't believe you should collect to invest or to make money. A good value would be to not spend your money on football cards. If price is a concern in any way, you shouldn't be spending your hard-earned dollars on cards. I've been in the hobby for many years now and to be perfectly blunt, there are a lot of broke dummies who spend every extra dollar and then some on this hobby. I think it's a joke. It's not impossible to make money buying/selling cards, it's just exceedingly unlikely and impractical. I sell cards on ebay because I buy them for literal pennies on the dollar from people second-hand. That's the safest and smartest way to do it.
Cards are like buying new cars. Once you drive off the lot (or open the pack of cards in this case) the resale value automatically drops. Again, almost all cards lose significant value over time. As for finding bang for your buck, you are always best off buying second-hand. But you also need to be hypervigilant to check prices elsewhere to ensure you're paying a fair price. Prices on cards, packs, boxes and cases adjust all the time and the big card sellers online all have ebay accounts with millions of listings and they see how prices move and what sells. You can try to predict how the market will move, but good luck! Finally, big sellers/dealers buy their product direct from Panini at a wholesale dealer discount. They buy it for less and can sell it for less and still make money. If you think you can make money over the long-term buying cards at full price, then reselling them, you are mistaken.
Finding your card's value
Besides paying for a Beckett subscription, you can also go to ebay to search for completed sales for your card. Search the card (year, brand, set, player) then you can filter results based on sales. If that specific card isn't there, you can also check for similar cards. Say you have a 2018 Russell Wilson auto, look up his autos from that year or from that set to get a close estimate. Or if you have a card #ed to 50, check for other #ed to 50 cards of that player from other sets in that year. That's your best estimate. However, keep in mind some products are obviously worth more. a #/10 Score card will generally not be worth as much as a #/10 Panini national treasures card of the same player.
Help IDing a card
Beckett has basically card to ever exist on its platform. If you can't find it, I can assure you it's there. Try googling every word/yeaphrase/name on the card/item before asking. You can also search on ebay or COMC or sportlots, which are a few of the many card selling platforms, and their search results include pics (usually) so it's easier to find what you're looking for.
Where to buy?
Local card stores for packs/boxes/cases. For singles, ebay will likely have the best deals and your best options. Keep in mind this hobby is growing so demand is high on new product. These are not endorsements or sponsors but I recommend shopping at dacardworld.com, blowoutcards.com, or steelcitycollectibles.com. There are a handful of other bigger card shops but these are the big 3 as far as I know. They sell hobby products (I'll clarify what this means below). And of course, if feasible for you, you can also shop at your local card store (they also sell hobby products). To find the nearest store, google "local card store" or "sports card stores near me"... In my opinion, you should NEVER spend money at Walmart or Target and ALWAYS buy from local card stores.
Hobby vs. Retail
In order to prop up local card stores and keep driving business to them, there are hobby and retail products. Hobby cases/boxes/packs generally have the best cards and highest value cards and best odds for autographs/hits per box when compared to retail products. Retail products are the boxes/packs you will find at stores like Walmart and Target. The reason for the two separate types of products is because of economics. Walmart has hundreds of stores and their whole business model is based on bulk buying. They can buy a million boxes and their bulk purchasing allows them to undercut the average mom and pop shop. Your local card store can't buy the same amount of product as Walmart/Target or sell the same amount so their prices have to be higher. In the end, all you need to know is that hobby products are the better bang for your buck. Retail products even have worse autos from more random, low-level rookies. You can still get lucky and hit a top rookie auto in retail, it's not impossible. The odds are just less in your favor.
Card supplies/storage?
These are not endorsements/sponsors. BCW, Cardboard Gold, Ultra Pro. I would avoid buying any of these products through a store (walmart, target etc. Even a card store) when you can typically buy direct from them. At least if you're buying in bulk. A pack or two of top loaders or plastic sleeves will generally cost the same wherever you shop.
Should you get it graded? Meh. If you're going to sell for max value, yes. If you want to really protect the card long term and preserve its value in case you want to sell it later, yes. If these things don't matter to you, then no. If you're going to keep the card and its value doesn't really matter to you, no. You shouldn't. Grading is not cheap, especially if you're only grading a card or two. So if you're happy to just stick it in a toploader and keep it forever, don't grade. If you think your grandkids will want to sell it 50 years from now, sure, why not, get it graded. Generally speaking PSA is best for older cards. BGS is best for newer cards.
Base, insert, parallel, refractor, prizm?
I found this glossary of sports cards terms on Upper Deck's site that I think does a good job of explaining things.
If you have a question, please reply.
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